Clos-de-Vougeot, the dominating grand Cru vineyard of Vougeot, is a magic name that confers instant respectability on any bottle graced with its name. Unfortunately, as anyone who has ever cast their eyes upon the sizable walled vineyard with the Chateau de Clos Vougeot in it midst can vouch, it is singularly unimpressive in parts with hollows that see little sun and poorly drained lower sections that are not quite located on dizzying slopes.

Extensive tastings of Clos Vougeot rarely fail to produce wines that are unworthy of their price and pomp. Given the sum asked for Grand Cru Burgundy this appellation should carry with it a Caveat Emptor (buyer beware) warning. The vineyard is sub-divided among at least 80 owners, some with much better situations than others. The best examples are impressive: rich and full, with less tannic structure than Vosne-Romanee Grand Crus and not as aromatic and opulent as wines from Le Musigny. Well-vinified plots on less favorable sections can also yield fine wine. Vougeot also has very small amounts of Village wine and very modest amounts of Premier Cru vineyards. (Wine/Appellations)