St. Joseph starts where Condrieu ends and stretches 40 miles southward along the west bank of the Rhône, taking in vineyard sites with, to say the least, varying potential for quality production. The better vineyards lie at the southern end of the elongated appellation and in the hands of the top producers (Yves Cuilleron, Pierre Coursodon, Alain Graillot) make outstanding red Syrah-based wines and white Marsanne and Roussanne-based wines. Both are worthy of the serious attention of any Rhône wine devotee. The worst wines, often made from vines on flatlands that are quite unsuited to Syrah production, are consumed locally. (Wine/Appellations)