Price and expectations, if not outright quality reach their peak with Burgundy's Cote de Nuits wines of Vosne-Romanee and Flagey-Echezeaux. The latter's vineyard are so limited and contiguous with those of Vosne that it is often referred to in the same breath. Four of the eight Grand Cru vineyards are monopoles (owned exclusively by a single producer). The wines of Vosne have probably consumed more critics' ink over the years than most of the rest of the region put together. The finest examples are silky and powerful with a degree of minerality matched by austere dark fruit flavors; they are classic cellaring wines. The general style holds well throughout the Premier Crus and even the Village wines. Alas, not many bargains will be found bearing Vosne-Romanee or Echezeaux on the label. (Wine/Appellations)