In the 1980s and 1990s the popularity in countries such as the USA and Britain of user-friendly, inexpensive, varietally-labeled wines created the demand for a category of wine that the French were not meeting. This challenge was taken-up in what was the heartland of 'vin ordinaire', that part of France historically called the Midi that covers the Languedoc and Roussillon departments.

Languedoc-Roussillon has planted much of its vineyards with classic varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and even Viognier. These wines, labeled as Vin de Pays d'Oc, have been a notable export success in an era when France has lost export market share to New World regions. Frequently priced at less than $10, these wines often deliver what they promise, without any of the baggage associated with overpriced, mediocre, or downright poor wine from one of France's more glamorous appellations.

Vin de Pays are regional wines that are not subject to the complex, restrictive laws that govern appellations. A low minimum yield, strict maximum production limits, mandated grape varieties, and stipulations about typicity are out. Instead Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon can grow in relative proximity to each other. The producer can make their wine to meet the demands of the market, choosing to have low yields or to oak age. Most importantly, Vin de Pays can be labeled with the grape variety or blend of grape varieties from which they are made.

A disappointing Vin de Pays is merely a poor generic wine. A bad Appellation Controlée wine that is supposedly typical of its appellation is often little more than a sham for which the consumer often pays too much. Self-regulated 'typicity' of their wines from appellations is what allows poor producers to prosper in 'big name' appellations.

Generally, France's appellation system prohibits varietal labeling, Alsace excepted. Thus a Sancerre is not labeled as a Sauvignon Blanc, nor is a Médoc wine labeled as Cabernet Sauvignon. However, some large producers in Bordeaux and even Burgundy have taken to having it both ways by labeling their basic generic appellation wines with varietal labels. Technically, this is forbidden, but the authorities have not enforced the letter of the law.

Although the Pays d'Oc is the best known of Frances regional wines, it is far from the only one. There are over 100 Vin de Pays designations. The large departmental Vin de Pays regions each have a multitude of smaller Vin de Pays sub-regions and the vast majority of the latter will never see the shores of the U.S. (Wine/Appellations)