Austere, food-friendly dry rosé is still something the French probably do better than anyone else. Lirac’s neighboring commune of Tavel is famous for just such a rosé. Although Tavel is not a wine that needs much pondering or analysis, it is unlikely to ever be a major export to the United States. Americans don’t drink wine with meals regularly enough, particularly in the middle of a hot afternoon, to actually warrant a break from Chardonnay in the summer months. For those that do, the gutsy, full-bodied style of a good Tavel is hard to beat. The best manage to capture ripe berry fruit flavors and exhibit bright pink rosé hues. (Wine/Appellations)