Montalcino, one of Italy's premier wine towns, produces one of that country's most expensive wines: Brunello di Montalcino. Brunello is famous for its austerity and extraordinary aging potential, but in recent years vinification techniques have lightened up; today's Brunellos are more notable for their rich, ripe, and generally attractive qualities. The Biondi Santi family originally put the region on the map with their consistent efforts dating from 1842, when Brunello was first noted as a distinct subspecies of Sangiovese in the family vineyards in Greppo, southeast of Montalcino. Much of the reputation of these powerful wines is built on the extraordinary cellaring ability demonstrated by Biondi Santi's wines over the ages.
Vineyards are typically located on steep slopes ranging up to 1500 feet, giving the Brunello slow ripening conditions essential for its sturdy character. Unlike the vogue with other Tuscan wines, extended wood aging is an essential part of the wines' character, with two years being obligatory. In 1998 this was changed from a three and a half year period in wood, as some critics had asserted that in weaker vintages, the time spent in wood dried out the wine prematurely, reducing its ability to age. Nonetheless, the best producers of Brunello consistently produce some of Italy's finest wines.
Within the same geographical boundaries as the DOCG region exists a declassified DOC called Rosso di Montalcino. These wines can be made from the same fruit as that used for Brunello di Montalcino, but in practice are often from younger vines, and always vinified and aged in a manner that allows them to be consumed younger.
