Pinot Grigio – aka Pinot Gris – has become one of Italy’s most popular white wines in America. Popular to the point of Indian, Greek and even Spanish restaurants offering at least one version on their wine list.

Truth be told, while Pinot Grigio in Italy can be an excellent wine – though hardly great – the typical version has little to offer save for some faint aromas of apple, pear and dried flowers. As Pinot Grigio has become a commodity, there are now hundreds, perhaps thousands of producers across Italy (and even some in America) that produce a simple, uncomplicated version that has little complexity or weight on the palate- the ultimate summer sipper.

However, producers in cool climates such as Friuli, Alto Adige and Valle d’Aosta (where it is usually referred to as Pinot Gris) do make excellent version, generally from high elevation vineyards that have twenty or more years of age. These wines have plenty of spice as well as richness and offer impressive complexity. Pair these finer examples with vegetable or seafood risotto, lighter poultry or pork medallions.