Barossa Valley Shiraz

Tom Hyland looks at Shiraz from Australia's historic Barossa Valley.

by Tom Hyland, tnapawine@aol.com

	Old untrained Barrossa valley shiraz vines

A few choice regions in the world will be forever linked with a particular grape type. Napa Valley produces many wine types, but it is Cabernet Sauvignon that sets this region apart. The same holds true for Marlborough in New Zealand, where excellent examples of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir take a back seat to the signature Sauvignon Blancs. The Barossa Valley in Australia produces outstanding Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Semillon, but it is with Shiraz that this region has made its name. In fact, many believe that Barossa Shiraz is the quintessential style of this grape produced in Australia or anywhere in the world for that matter.

It doesn't hurt of course that the Australia's most famous red wine – Penfolds Grange – was originally sourced from the Barossa Valley. But several of the country's finest Shiraz also hail from this area; these include Grant Burge “Meshach,” St. Hallett “Old Block” and Peter Lehmann “Stonewell.”

To be precise, the term Barossa encompasses two valleys: the Barossa and the Eden. The Eden is located at a higher altitude and is cooler, which explains the quality of the Rieslings from here. Despite its cooler temperatures, outstanding and distinctive Shiraz is made here, as this is where the legendary Hill of Grace Vineyard owned by Henschke is located.

For this article, however, we will concern ourselves with the Barossa Valley. Its history is well known; German Lutherans fleeing religious persecution settled here in the 1840s just as vines were first being planted. Barossa Shiraz became popular at the beginning of the 20th century and despite the efforts of the Australian government to have older vines pulled out in favor of Chardonnay and other international varieties, it is as popular as ever today.

Great Shiraz is made all throughout Australia, particularly in Clare Valley, Coonawarra and McLaren Vale, so what makes Barossa Shiraz so special? Stuart Blackwell, winemaker at St. Hallett, notes several reasons. There were the historic clones from South Africa brought to Barossa five generations ago that work beautifully in the various soil types.

Rainfall is moderate which “ensures a balanced rather than vigorous crop,” according to Blackwell. Also, the warm to hot summers ensure full ripeness creating an ideal situation for producing big, full-flavored wines, which have come to define the Barossa Valley Shiraz style.

The growers in the Barossa Valley have not had to deal with the problems of phylloxera, yet the same holds true for Clare Valley and McLaren Vale. For Blackwell then, it is the old vines of Barossa – some more than a century old- that make the difference. He believes the agricultural conservatism of these growers has made the difference and has “retained the Barossa's viticultural heritage.”

Blackwell adds a few final points about the uniqueness of these wines. “These old vines give Barossa Shiraz that edge – softness, elegance and complexity of fruit flavors. They are not just big, bruiser wines but are often surprisingly elegant and with a full range of flavors – mochas, chocolate, coffee, sweet fruits into licorice and violets. That huge array of flavors is what makes Barossa Shiraz different.”



GRANT BURGE

2000 “BAROSSA VINES”
Deep ruby red- violet hue. Blackberry, clove, hint of pepper and toasted oak aromas. Medium-full on the palate with good concentration. A bit heavy on the oak, otherwise nicely balanced with ripe fruit, firm tannins and balanced acidity. Best to hold for a year and then enjoy over the next 3-5 years. (86 points) $11

1999 “MIAMBA”
Deep ruby red-violet hue. Black raspberry, blackberry, plum and white pepper aromas. Medium-full to full bodied with very good concentration. Balanced finish with ripe fruit, polished tannins and good acidity. Straightforward style of Shiraz- best consumed at 5-7 years of age. (88) $15

1999 “FILSELL”
Deep ruby red-violet hue. Sweet oak, blackberry, plum and mocha aromas. Full-bodied with excellent concentration and supple mouthfeel. Big finish with layers of fruit, firm but refined tannins and balanced acidity. Big and ripe, but polished. Best enjoyed in another 2 years and will hold for 7-10 years after that. (92) $25 – excellent value

1996 “MESHACH”
Deep ruby red-violet hue. Cedar, blackberry, sage and a hint of alcohol in the aroma. Full-bodied with excellent concentration. Long, long finish with layers of fruit that coat the palate and tongue. Refined tannins and balanced acidity. This demands your attention not because of its strength, but because of its charms. Drinkable now and over the next 10-12 years. (93) $145


PENFOLDS

1998 KALIMNA BIN 28
(Although this wine contains fruit from McLaren Vale and Padthaway, much of the fruit is from Barossa. Some of the is from the famed Kalimna Vineyard, the primary source for Penfolds most famous Shiraz, Grange.)
Medium purple hue. Blackberry, licorice, clove, tar and sweet oak aromas. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Long, fruit-driven finish with layers of fruit, polished tannins and balanced acidity. Drinking well now, this will be enjoyable for another 7-10 years. The Bin 28 is one of the most consistent examples of Shiraz produced anywhere in Australia and represents one of the finest values of this wine type today. (90) $24

1999 RWT
RWT stands for Red Winemaking Trial and is made from fruit entirely from the Barossa Valley. It is aged in French oak, unlike the Bin 28 and Grange, which are aged in American oak.
Medium purple hue. Blackberry, licorice, milk chocolate, nutmeg and oak aromas. Medium-full to full-bodied with excellent concentration. Long, long finish that features supple fruit, refined tannins and vibrant acidity. This should drink well for 10-12 years. Not a powerhouse, but everything – alcohol, tannins and acidity – in harmony. (93) $70


GIBSON'S

2000 “BAROSSAVALE”
The fruit for this wine is a blend of 81% Barossa, 14% McLaren Vale, 3% Coonawarra and 2% Langhorne Creek. Medium purple with an aroma of toasted oak, grilled charcoal. blackberry and chocolate. Medium-full with very good concentration, this is surprisingly supple and elegant for such a young wine. The supple tannins allow for immediate drinkability and over the next 3-5 years. (86) $40

2000 OLD VINE BAROSSA
Deep purple with an aroma of blackberry, boysenberry, chocolate and oak. Medium-full to full-bodied with very good concentration. Long, elegant finish with refined alcohol and tannins. Drinkable now, this can be enjoyed over the next 5-7 years. (90) $75


YALUMBA

2000 BAROSSA
Light purple with an aroma of blackberry, plum and chocolate. Medium-full with very good concentration. Big finish that is well-balanced offering persistent fruit with youthful tannins and moderate acidity. Best consumed over the next 3-5 years. (87) $17 - very good value


ST. HALLETT

2000 FAITH
Deep ruby red-violet hue. Blackberry and chocolate aromas with a hint of nutmeg and pepper. Medium-full with a supple mouthfeel, this has a well-balanced, elegant finish with sleek tannins and moderate acidity. Drink now or over the next 3-5 years. (87) $19

1998 OLD BLOCK
A blend of fruit from the Barossa and Eden Valleys. Light purple hue. Aroma of blackberry, sweet oak, a touch of chocolate and lead pencil. Full-bodied (14.0 alcohol) with excellent concentration. Complex finish with layers of fruit, youthful tannins and moderate acidity. Very ripe, but does not go over the top and is actually somewhat restrained. Enjoy over the next 10-12 years. (92) $24 – excellent value.

1998 BLACKWELL
Medium purple with an aroma of blackberry, boysenberry, dark chocolate, star anise and a hint of pepper. Full-bodied with tremendous concentration. Big, multi-layered finish with persistent fruit that is ripe and juicy. Firm, but balanced tannins and moderate acidity. Big, gutsy wine with a lot of class and breeding. Drink over the next 12-15 years. (94) $40



PETER LEHMANN

2000 “THE BAROSSA”
Brilliant ruby red with an aroma of blackberry, cigar and dried herbs. Medium-full with good concentration. Well-structured finish with spicy fruit, elegant tannins and balanced acidity. Drinkable now and over the next 3-5 years. Though not as classy as recent vintages, this is a well-made wine. (87) $20

1998 EIGHT SONGS
Medium purple with an aroma of blackberries, plums, rosemary and subtle oak. Medium-full to full-bodied with a lovely supple mouthfeel. Long, long, elegant finish with layers of fruit, refined tannins and beautifully balanced acidity. As this wine was aged in French oak, the spiciness is downplayed while the elegance is pushed to the forefront. Some Barossa Shiraz from 1998 grab you by the neck, but not this one – this glides down the throat! Drinkable now, it will be at its best in 10-15 years. (94) $55

1996 STONEWELL
Deep purple with an aroma of black spice, pepper, bitter chocolate, plum and sweet oak. Full-bodied with excellent concentration. Big complex finish with layers of concentrated, intense fruit, firm but balanced tannins and good acidity. While not shy in the least, this is in balance and is not over the top. Barrel fermented and aged primarily in American oak (with some French oak). The fruit tastes younger than what you would expect from a 1996 Shiraz and as a whole this is a statement from the winemaker about old vines, terroir, longevity and elegance. A wonderful achievement. Drink now or over the next 15-20 years. (95) $75

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