
			Home \| About Us \| Contact Us

Tastings Menu

WINE

Wine Search

Wine Articles

Best Producers

Food & Wine Matching Guide

BEER

SPIRITS

FOR THE TRADE

Quick Search

enter keywords

Austria's Whites

World Class Wines

by Charles Laverick, cl@tastings.com

Unlike German Rieslings, which are still at odds with the international marketplace in that they are not only often sweet but come in a bewildering array of sweetness levels that are difficult if not impossible to decipher from their labels, the vast majority of Austrian Rieslings are dry. The quality of the finest Austrian Rieslings is indisputable and they are among the finest white wines made in the world today. In that they are not only dry, but also several degrees higher in alcohol (13- to 14-percent is not uncommon), they actually share more in common with classic Alsatian examples than German ones.

As cutting-edge restaurateurs have realized that fat, buttery, oaky Chardonnays, though popular, are difficult to pair with food, they have broadened their lists to include unoaked, varietally-intense wines with good underlying acidity from classic varietals such as Sauvignon Blanc and, particularly, Riesling. This has led those truly in the know, such as Chicago's Charlie Trotter, straight to the doorstep of Austrian Riesling where it is recognized as a fantastic match for a broad range of dishes.

The Key Wine Regions: Wachau, Kamptal, and Kremstal
All of the finest Austrian Rieslings come from a trio of tiny river valleys just west of the Austrian capital, Vienna. Like the famed Mosel-Saar-Ruwer district in Germany, the Wachau, Kremstal, and Kamptal regions of Austria are compact districts with steep, granite-based, south facing slopes lining the banks of rivers, which lend a moderating influence. In short, the geography and climate come together in this corner of the world to make for Riesling nirvana. With the added consistency that a more southerly latitude brings, however, finding Wachau, Kremstal, or Kamptal on a Riesling label is a virtual guarantee that the wine therein will be at least good, if not always world class.

Within the Wachau in particular, it is helpful to be aware of a further system of nomenclature that has been developed to simplify things for the consumer. Wines are labeled Steinfeder, Federspiel, or Smaragd (after little green lizards that sun themselves on the granite slopes of the vineyards) in respective order of weight, and generally, quality.

The style of wines produced in the three regions differs slightly. Wachau produces the leanest, purest wines with an emphasis on acidity and structure. They are truly age-worthy. Kamptal is on the other end of the spectrum and its wines are often a degree or two higher in alcohol than those of the Wachau. The rolling countryside around Kamptal tends to produce not only weightier wines, but wines that are a little more broadly textured and accessible in youth. Outside of a handful of prized vineyard sites (Heiligenstein having pride of place), Kamptal really excels with Grüner Veltliner. Kremstal lies somewhere between the other two appellations in style. The southern end of Kremstal, abutting Wachau, has a wealth of steep, terraced vineyards that produce wines that are more Wachau-like than some Wachau villages. Those to the north, however, share more in common with Kamptal.

...And the Price?
Alas, the price! Of course, as in many other great Old World regions the same factors that make for great quality—limited yields, back-breaking slopes, and high demand—mean that these wines don't come cheap. Few, if any, of the very best wines will retail for less than $20 per bottle, while some may top out in the area of $50 or more.

Distribution can also be a problem, as quantities of these vineyard-designated specialties are necessarily limited. Several U.S. importers have made a minor specialty of Austrian wines, however. If you are having difficulty tracking specific wines down it would be wise to check with major importers such as Michael Skurnik Wines in Syosset, NY, the Austrian Specialty Wine Co. in Franklin, TN, Vin Divino in Chicago, IL, or Wein-Bauer in Franklin Park, IL.

Austrian white wine reviews